Verdi
In 1864 a California lumber company established a logging and sawmill town
at Crystal Peak on the eastern flank of the Sierra Nevada a short distance
north of O'Neil's Crossing on the Truckee River. By 1868 the town had grown
to 1500 people, most of them engaged in cutting and sawing the timbers
required by the eastward snaking Central Pacific Railroad, and in working
small gold and silver deposits. The CPRR tracks bypassed the town, however,
and by 1869 most of Crystal Peak's vitality had been transplanted to the
new railroad townsite at the old crossing on the Truckee half a mile to the
southeast. It was christened Verdi to honor the composer, but pronounced in
the typical Nevada lunkhead fashion as VUR-dye.
Verdi's saw, lathe, and shingle mills buzzed incessantly to serve the
California market, and by the 1880s the little town had become one of the
main collection and storage points for winter ice which found ready markets
in California's valley and coastal towns during the summer.
Verdi's place in history is secure as the site of the first train robbery
in the West. Shortly after midnight on November 5, 1870, five men boarded
the east-bound cars at Verdi. When the locomotive left the station, the
passenger cars had been uncoupled and left standing on the track. The
locomotive, pulling only the mail car and express car, chuffed eastward to
a stone culvert, where the engineer was ordered to stop. The robbers opened
both cars, putting the train crew in the mail car under guard while they
struggled to open the Wells Fargo & Co. treasure boxes. The robbers found
$41,600 in the shipment, hurriedly divided it at the edge of the roadbed,
and scattered into the night after barricading the track. Within a week
every member of the gang had been captured and $39,500 of the stolen money
recovered. Two of the men turned state's evidence against the rest and were
released; the others drew sentences of from five to 23-1/2 years in the
penitentiary.
The train robbery was the single exciting week in more than a century and
a quarter of otherwise uneventful history. Nevertheless, Verdi could boast
of a short-line logging railroad of its own before the twentieth century
was very old. But by the 1930s logging had virtually ceased and Verdi was
subsisting on the railroad and highway traffic. US 40 uncoiled itself to
pass through the town after its sinuous passage over Donner Summit, and by
the late 1940s and early 1950s the town was best known for the large Bill &
Effie's Truck Stop here.
Bill and Effie sold the truck stop, and the new owners moved it out of the
center of town to the edge of the freeway and christened it Boomtown, a
roadside phenomenon that has far surpassed its origins. The truck driver is
still king here, but we ordinary mortals are welcome too.
Verdi itself is far enough off the freeway to retain its old character.
Travelers can find essential services, and the Verdi Inn has an enduring
reputation. The old logging town shows evidence of its up and downs, but
the setting alone is worth the short detour. A dirt road meanders into the
Sierra by way of Dog Valley, and at several scenic points along its length
the Forest Service has developed campgrounds. The Washoe County Park
Department maintains the beautiful Crystal Peak Park at the river's edge
just south of town as a picnic area.